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Post About Nagaland

3rd February
Soon I passed Sonari and then there were huge tea plantation I have seen, its very romantic over here.
Namtala – the check post – I crossed and here I m in Nagaland. If you want to know how much destruction we are doing every day? How much natural resources are going out of such states like Nagaland? Then you can just visit this place. A lot of huge wooden trunks pass every day and great number of it is lying here. There are hundreds of stone crushers. In last cycle tour when I entered in Tripura and Mizoram it was same picture. I am always anguish while passing such place. I left the plane with Assam and as I reached closer, blue mountains turned to green. On the way a pastor asked me join him on way back and not to go further because there was no human habitat in next 20km according to him. First he welcomed me to Nagaland and I had a small but nice interaction with him but carried my journey. I was very enthu and was felling very energetic being in the mountain. By the time I reached Tuimei a small village it was very dark. After a group check up of my belonging they welcomed me. I was staying with Chincwang, he was a good singer at church. After diner I joined him at church where he was learning new songs. I had a good chat with different friends gathered at ‘my’ place. That day with very tough arrangement I had very good sleep. My host was victim of army harassment done because of such assistance he provided to a stranger still he and I both were glad to meet each other.

4th February
Chincwang asked me to drop in on my way back and I left taking warm wishes from my friends. The road was up and down, green, windy and with lot of curves giving beautiful mountain’s view. All the way I explored Nagaland by such roads. District commissioner arranged a room in guest house for me, from there a beautiful view of Mon town u could see. On three small mountains the town is spread with valleys on both sides East and West and then with big mountains spread still horizon. all the way in town two young girls accompanied me with lot of talk and refreshments.

5th feb.
I did some official work, extended my ILP, Interacted with people. I remember the point on the road where roads from a Church, Mosque and temple meet. At Tuimui and here also there was not a single bicycle in the village so I got a great response.
‘Riding down the bicycle’ do you remember the poem we learned in schools? Its great.
At Tanhai since there were GREF (road makers) officers staying in the camp, I stayed with them. Where ever there is such availably people don’t prefert to take responsibility of strangers.

6th feb.
Near Wakching I kept my bicycle at road side and joined Aching on his bike. We went to his village. He feed me deer’s meat which I had first time in my life.
His house was a perfect Naga House. Stove at the center, shelves are hanging over it where they dry n number of things, raised gallery where green broms were kept for drying in the sun, this structure made out of bamboo and mud I wish I could have it. We came back from Shiyong village on the main road. I picked up my bicycle and Zu Zu Zu.
Enjoying up and down way, I was going deep in Nagaland because of the curved roads I just felt as an ant entering in a rose through petals. But the real exploration started when I chose an interior path from zero miles. I would have traveled more than 20kms, but I didn’t found any colony. It was too late in night my loving friend moon was very bright. Thick green forest, breezy wind, lots of springs and kal-kal of river – just imagine.
At first when the paddle of my bicycle broke I was rushing towards a habitat, trying hard with that bicycle but then I realized the beauty in surrounding. I was not at all frightened and was thinking ki this road must not end. But finally I rested. It was a small temporary structure made by coal workers Deepak, Krishna and Ustad, with nobody in surrounding. But you will not believe I had nice food and talk. After putting all my dresses on the body I rested on that bamboo structure with deep satisfaction of repairing of my bicycle. Unexpectedly Ustad -the truck driver- joined the paddle to the bicycle It was mid night and there was no electric connection too. For one moment I thought ki I am in a dream.

7th feb.
In dawn my companion went on coal field leaving me in that structure. I said bye and rested for some time and then I too started my journey very early. I halted at Tamlu In afternoon only with Ang or Wang – the village’s king (Every Konayak Naga’s village has a king). Here I saw two skulls with horns of wild beefalos were hanging in his hose. He gave me extremely lovely treatment and asked to stay for one more day, since the next day was Sunday and here Sunday is total Bandh.

8th feb
After 13 kms ride from Morangkhum I was on NH 61. In four hours four vehicles passed, this I called Sunday Effect. In this Mokokchuing district Ao Naga resides.
Sasi was standing on the road just as he was waiting for me. The first sentence he said “Its becoming dark now you please stay with me. He was a owner of a pineapple and banana farm. In the Night he enlightened me on one thing.
Dogs in other parts of India though with lot of love but always treated as ‘dogs’. “We treat them as a family member” he said. I was observing that. His two kids of less than 10 year old were playing with eight dogs as playing with brothers and in several other way Sasi’s statement was true. Naga are several other things known as dog eaters. Sasi also likes dog’s meat. So he will kill his dogs or sell them for eating. But isn’t it great that whole of the life a dog will be treated as a part of the family?

9th feb
At Chingmungyang I had long chat with de-addiction center’s activist. To conquer strong Naga people opium was propagated here by ‘civilized’ Britishers.
Its Nagaland Gandhi Ashram here.
I met with the founder Natwar Thikar in Guwahati at his camp office. He assisted me there by providing detail information about the Nagaland, guided and gave tips for my journey. It was the time now to explore his karmabhumi. I got a warm welcome at computer institute started by NGA. In Nagaland only two such institutes are there one at Kohima – the capital and other here in this town with excellent set up and facilities and courses because of the NGA’s effort only. Institute’s director Lanu took time in the evening for outing and I explored chi wonderful Chuchuyimlang. An incredible structure made out of bamboos called ‘Murung’ is for traditional dance of young boys and girls. Its beautiful design and weaving is just indescribable. There was a biggest dhol I ever seen with diameter of 4 ft and length of 25 ft. But beside all these the conversation with Mr. Subong a very learned person and founder secretary of friend’s high school and pastor’s wife marked the day. We discussed all the contemporary issues. I was delighted when I came to know and seen the village court. When I think of ‘Swaraj’, Swarj in judical system is crucial one. Here Naga People are autonomous in judicial system. Because the justice is done by ‘known’ persons and without any fee nobody feel unjust.
When we were back nice food was ready. Oman who was mentaing NGA served with food affectionately. Lanu once spend four year in Maharastra for hi engineering, we talked a lot about this and on several other things.

10th
In the morning I visited Friends high school. Talked with children, but it was tuff due to language but with teachers I had a long conversation tracing the importance of creativity and skill base in education. After a long gap I had roties with Oman in lunch and I left Chuchu.
Out of 28 km I traveled on that day aprox. 20 Km was hike. I was tired. Since it was districts headquarter Mokokchuing, a city, I went to Police Station to report my arrival as an intimation. They arranged some food and facility for staying so I put up with them.

11th feb
Yesterday I was towing my bicycle for 5 km due to a breakage in the handle so I welded it here. The welding was gift from Dhiraj and Biraj, before on friend Tongpang gifted me a small basket of woven bamboos made by him. I had delicious lunch with Lee who was once in Mumbai. He was 32 and a paralytic patient, which was a withdraw effect after leaving opium. He was frankly sharing his story. Just before leaving the city Emti a teacher felt ki I should stay with him to night, but I carried on after a talk. He insisted me to have momos but my stomach was full so he give it in a box with a wonderful chatni. He also loved traveling but due to family responsibilities was unable to go out. Once he did cycling between Agara and Delhi for several times. I invited him to my place. All these friends I got just because of my bicycle. They really admire cycling in hills.
I crossed Umar the second largest village of the state. It is magnificent when you see a colony on the top of the green mountain. Nagaland is the best place for such scenes.
I went 6 km off-road and reached Loghkhum. When I started on the way somebody phoned his friend Wati telling that a foreigner bicyclist is on the way. So Wati was on the way to receive me. He was not disappointed after knowing my nationality. With a joy he hosted and expressed love by providing nice food.

12th February
I twisted my way for Longkhum 1. To meet ‘the’ creative man of the region Dr. Ayam. I was glad to see the innovative he developed for farmers and wood cutters, carvers. Among his creative thing there was a stove of iron pipes, in which cooking vessels are kept on the pipes and water is heated in the pipes while cooing.
2 to observe the animist religion which is practiced here, but rather than stony god I didn’t found any thing.
Once this village was the headquarter of the rebellions so was totally burned by Indian army.
Yesterday I climbed those 6 kms in one and half hour while coming town it took only five minutes.
Before entering Wokha district we cross through a small portion of Zunheboto district where Sema Naga reside. Khekaito asked me to have tea with him in his house and our interaction resulted in the halt. It was Sastani Village near Vk town. While having round in that I met Mughato a wood and bamboo artisan. I was glad to visit his wonderful house. Some villagers make jagry here organically, good to hear that. Here I fond a handy loom in almost every house. And in one hose they showed me all the traditional dresses and ornaments used in festival time great. Today I had diner in a two feet tall stool like wooden plate carved out of a single wooden piece. Khekaito talked on lot if things still late in night. He was aware of problems of industrialized world and worried about the day by day loss of tradition skills and wisdom. He was interested in setting up a bio gas unit; I said I’ll provide few details regarding this when I’ll back at my home.

13th February
Didn’t know who but somebody removed the flowers given at friends high school and replaced with fresh one. Khekaito was gifting me something a water bottle or a trouser I just thanked him then he added some more flowers on my bicycle.
It was 13 km down till Doyang River. Twelve I enjoyed and when I was in full speed on a curve a applied a strong breaks. And… And I fall down. There was no injury but was a great twist in rear wheel’s rim. It was not possible to ride it since it was a foldable bicycle I folded and was waiting for a lift. I crossed that 106 Km in Omini and was in Kohima. It was dark outside and every shop was closed. I stayed in a lodge and was waiting for morning.

14th February
Surprisngly there was not a single bicycle and bicycle repairing shop in the state capital. I searched hard for it and finally after repairing a bit I started my journey towards Dimapur. The entire 64 Km down the hill. This slope I would have had crossed in 4-5 hours it took two days for me. After 29 km I halted at Piphema in the residence of a hotel owner. When I was involved in farming in Udupi in Karnataka we thought to plough with on animal, since we were not able to keep two animals. At that time I searched for the technique like anything that I got it here. The person I was staying with explained me how the ploughing is done by one (he)baffelo.

15th
Down the road I went to the only Agriculture College in state in search of bamboo seeds. All the way I was searching for them. Bamboo is a blessing for human being. I was envy to see so much bamboo in the region. Prof. D P Sharm was there from last 28. He is basically from UP. Together with Mrs. Sharm, Keka – a MSc student we had three hour long talk. The couple shared there experiences In Nagaland. “When we visit our native place we fell as we are outscored.” Mrs Sharma said. People are very cooperative loving and helpful, professor added on it. Please note this point basically who think Naga people are wild and un civilized. I spent totally seventeen days in Nagaland I was experiencing incredible love and hospitality. But I must tell you the troth also that I was also a bit scare to enter in Nagaland especially considering the militancy. All are lovely people here including militant personals.
With Keka and his class fellow Pelle I had a great stay in the luxurious guest house. Actually I spent most time in the hostel refreshing my memories of hostel life songs and masti bhari baten .

16th
Explored the farm of Agricultural college – SASRD. Keka showed me his tissue culture lab. A marine drive along side with Paglapar river in that green beautiful valley took me to Demapur. It is states economic capital. With every single facility this cosmopolitan place Dmapur can be called as ‘a mini metro’. I was cheered when with little information I successded in finding out address of one of my classmate Shailabh, with whom I was studying in Pune eight years ago.
His parents gave me warm welcome. Took my bicycle to repairing center he asked me to come next day.
A grand talk with a very learned professor (kshailabh’s father), North Indian home food, superb.

17th
Matar aur alu ke parathe aur halwa ma ne banaya. Bicycle was ready then again ma ke haat ka khana. I went to KVIC’s Dimapur unit and was not happy to see their work, but people were nice. They asked me to halt there so I landed at Jai Jagat Bhavan Demapur.

18th
We went to explore, all the time we were talking what could be done here as a village industry and they were shearing the problems they were facing. Because of big industry every body want a fine product in cheep rate and with less physical effort.
Dimapur was not in my plan since there was a twist in my cycle tyre I twisted my route. Bicycle twist was removed yesterday. I took a lift on the same road to reach back to kohima. It was dark and I was just standing in a lonely square, thinking where to go. Some young boys and girls approached me.
Are you a cycle tourist’
‘Yes’
‘You could join us to night’
I was surprised. In a city and that too densly millitionized Kohima I was not expecting this.
Mughato, Grace, Kali were from a villige and staying in Kohim for their higher studies taking a small house on rent. Kali tought me a Naga song. When youngsters gather Bakbak and fun has to happen, but apart from that we discussed how we can create some jobs rather than search for job. I injected an idea of starting a skill based learning center together in their own village when they will go back after finishing their studies.

19th February
I felt ki there shouldn’t such place when I was there at Second World War crematory. I visited Nagaland state measum too. Since I crossed a lot of part of the state I felt these measum do a very good job of destroying the sprit of the culture. A was good to talk with Mr. Meinglo activist of Nagaland peoples movement for human rights. He was trying to reconcile the National workers of Nagaland.
It was late in noon when I left the city. It looks marvelous from a distance the spreading of city on mountains.
It was NH 39. the way to Imphal, people don’t respond much to a stranger like me. This I call highway effect. When it was dark I was at Kikhoma village, I went to village head men. Abito told me about Angami Nags thir language is called as ‘Tenydi’ and is only literary language of the state. This was last halt in Nagaland.

Few things about Nagaland
Rice is the main food. Plenty of Kachu – yam so called as Naga potato. Almost zero oil preparation. Two main ingredients in vegetable or stoo one preserved bamboo shoots in some parts and boiled and semi-dried bean’s paste. Every day I had this food with some kind of meat.
Every day I was seeing 3-4 people with gun. They were regular citizens with lovely heart. They were carrying gun for hunting purpose.
16 or so are the major tribes I spent time with Konayaks, Aos, Semas, and Angamis. Every one has their own language and festival which they celebrate with great energy.
They are proud to say that nobody in history has conquered them and hence most people want to be free.
Its totally hilly so zoom cultivation is most but step farming is also there
Villages are far away of party politics. They have their autonomous Village Concil And a body to look after developmental work called Village Development Board.
Village Court is again a autonomous system Naga fallows.
Three groups are active FGH-NNC(fedral government of Nagaland – Naga National council), NSCN (National socialist council of Nagaland) K- Khublang and IM – Isac Muvah. And all three run a parallel government. Activists of these groups are often called as Freedom Fighters or National Workers.
Handy Handloom is common and alive.
People have lots of foreigner travelers but they say the found less Indians.
With green forest and bamboo plants it is Greenland.
With Blue Mountains and lots of springs it is Dreamland.
Always singing a song, misty, Nagaland

AboutAssam

On 17th January By taking a warm reception from Nagaland House, the gifts, - a tourist guide for Nagaland some photographs – and ILP(Inner Land Permit to be in Nagaland from 29th January to 4th February ,) I left Guwahati.
To cross Bramahaputra I chose a different a path. Rather than crossing ‘her’ by bridge I towed my bicycle on her southern bank a nd put it on a boat, and here I entered in Assamies life. It was Kurua, a small village on northen bank of Bramahaputra and I was freezed seeing the beautiful life and nature over there. The way was little bit hilly and by the time it was too dark, I reached the village naming Mandakata.
This was my first halt. I was always welcomed and got friends anywhere I go. Sitting on a side of gozeous flowerished yellow Sarasoon farm Shiraj told me his life story. He was an orphan. We had a long chat but he felt sorry that he can’t take me to his house, since he was staying with other people. Every home is mine in my locality – he said, But I don’t have a home. He directed me to the Village headmen, but headmen’s brother was more enthusiastic to host me so I put up with him in his house. First they served me with Peetha, and then we went for a walk in the surrounding and had Peetha in two more houses. After diner with chat I ended up my day.

!8th January
In the morning I was introduced with that hich I named later as ‘Pukhari Culture’. Plain part of Assam has this typical lifestyle, rooms made of mud and bamboo surrounded with ‘Pukhari’(kitchen or small pond) on one side, areca nut, banana, Bamboo and several tress and a beautiful hip of animal feeder compounded with bamboo mesh. My host was introducing one after another, he was having a small different mud structure for storing paddy which they call ‘Bharal’.
With warm feeling after exchanging Greetings, I took their leave. Soon I was on NH 53. it was surrounded with Pukhari cultured houses on both sides. Since this kind of locality takes lot of space due to larger house area, I found lot of cyclists here. I had chat with few of them while riding and one of them Kesavram joined me for about 19 Km. he was an expert of weaving Muga silk. He trained other people and was going for repairing one of the looms of a small industry which he set up for a millionaire. I too joined him to the industry and first time saw Muga silk weaving. After traveling bit long on the way and into each others’ mind I asked him ‘why don’t you start a small industry on your own?’ the answer was most common ‘money’. As a treat to a guest he feed me a Samosa at Mangaldai. Then we had songs on the way and we departed.
I traveled few more kilometers with Kesavram in mind and reached Kolaigaon, sombady was waiting for me there.
Dithakanand Hazarika - circle officer kolaigaon met me at Saranya asram where I was staying in Gowhati. He was there for Behu celebration with his family. There he told me about the Hindu-Muslim communal riots that happened in his region in October 08 and asked me to visit his work place and relief camps of the victims in the region. It was a small but great interaction which decided the direction of my cycle journey.
I started with Peetha and slowly friends of Dida (Dithakanand dada) joined me one by one. Dida has really a great friend circle over here with people from different boxes of society. With introducing each other we talked on communal riots, militancy, insurgency all sensitive issues and ended in a musical night which is everlasting in my memory. Dida is a wonderful singer with all musical instruments at his house. Including his kids – rumba sumba – we were ten everyone with an instrument.
Ami Ek Jajabor…
Ganga Amar Ma Padma Amar Ma…
O Ganga Tum Behati ho kyun…
Every song has the strength to weten your eyes. I had diner with a new dish Matikalai. Since guesthouse was full with other officers I moved to ABSU It was pass twelve, silence everywhere.

19th – 22nd January
I spent a lot of time in and around Kolaigaon but I stayed with ABSU. ‘All Bodo Students Union was established in 1967’ Kolagaon Anchilik Precident started introducing ABSU. For wider acceptance of Bodo language, for rights and autonomy of Bodo people and in several other struggles ABSU is the one which has provided ‘fighters’ for all these. The place I was staying was office come hostel of Bodo students with mess, library and several other facilities. In this five day halt I had lot of chat on every single issue of WE young peoples’ interest. Before my departure they organized a small send-off program. Offered me an ‘Aranai’ – Bodo’s special Gamcha - and some gift. There I had formally given a comparatively long talk tracing 1 Developing our skills, 2 Moving in the direction of Self-reliant society or ‘SWARAJ’, 3 Preserving our cultural heritage and nature which is only possible through practice.
With different friends I visited three different villages around Kolaigaon, I participated in marriage ceremony of Assam’s family, addressed in three different function, including one which was specially organized for me in which 33 village’s headmen were present. There I made an appeal to maintain this ‘Pukhari culture’ with explaining that this is eco-friendly(since most houses are made out of bamboo, mud and roof with a long kind of grass), spacious, helps in self-dependent in vegetables, fruits and fish and made out of renewable material.
With having food in LohitDa’s ViplavDa’s and MohanDa’s home I developed family relations. ViplavDa has a bicycle shop; he did a long surgery of my bicycle.
It was really tuff to leave Kolaigaon, but finally I moved.

23rd January
By the time I reached Kuptimari it was too dark. Lot of people was gathered around the fire. In cold days this is normal picture but the huge crowed was showing some abnormality. It was densely populated relief camp of the victims of
communal riots. Before approaching them I was a bit hesitant and confused with a doubt that, will they accept me to stay over there? But I was shocked when they welcomed me with great concern, love and curiosity. There was no electricity in the camp from last many days. I had food in one of victim’s house who was staying in a small tin shade provided by government. Wooden bed and a thin sheet to cover - it was a tough arrangement for me but it was defiantly better than those who were slipping under the blue sky in that cold. Lying on that bed I was just imagining the life in my surrounding which was in dark.

24th
That temporary toilets, tuff water arrangements, all kitchens under the blue sky, I stood still watching and experiencing all this. Then with a young chap I went to the original colony where these people were residing from ages.
The partially burned but fully destroyed houses, same the furniture, ‘that’ pinching silence and finally that Youngman’s house. All this was started after 14th August last year but major clash was after 3rd October. Since then from last four months these people are living a life which they never thought of.
I was all the way asking myself and then others too ki why did all this happened?
Is there any answer?
In that day I listened to ‘their’ stories. I was sad but emotionally they were almost returned to normal life.
In the evening some policemen suspected me. They started interrogating me. Since I didn’t believe in papers or document I failed to prove my identity as Indian. Checking bag, lots of questions one after other every officer was suspecting me. It is true that lot of Bangladeshies are there but…
After three hour checkup with huge mob surrounding finally policemen pulled me in their jeep, almost crushed my cycle and took me to district headquarter Udalguri. I was just a suspect so they didn’t imprisoned me but the lodging and food facilities were like that only. I had a tough sleep with question in my mind that ‘with so much army personals and policemen with automatic bullets why they are scared of a lay person like me with whom they didn’t found any wrong belonging?’

25th
In the morning they were asked me to go. I didn’t tell them but I paddled back to the same place. But via a relief camp for Muslims. The earlier Kuptimari was for Hindus. Ranipukhari was for muslims. Together there were 43 such camps in the region. I visited two and was able to seek out the differences.
When I was back at the same Kuptimari, people were showing sympathy. Some of them were victims of police harassment and army’s over interrogation.
I had wonderful interactions. They invited me to become the citizen of their village and marry a Bodo girl.

26th
The Republic Day celebration was totally hijacked by RSS people here. Since riots happened they were the one who was ruling over this Hindu region. I was there in the function just to respect the villager’s request.
After the function I started my cycle journey. Since it was 26th January and lot of anti-elements were there, lot of army personals were appointed. So after sun set I approached to police officer in Rohata they took me 20 km far to Orang to provide me nice lodging facility.

Since it was 27th January
I was running out of time to reach Nagaland, so though I thought to travel all the by bicycle I spend all my day and night of 27th traveling in train. First to Majbhat and then to Rangapara finally reaching North Lakhimpur on
28th
Maitri Ashram is one of the six ashrams started by Vinoba Bhave. I explored handloom work here. And sheared the thoughts and experiences of Baidev who joined vinoba on his Bhudan padyatra and done twelve years padyatra differently too.
On 29th
I cooked a famous Marathi sweet dish Puranpoli today. I was resting at the same place.

30th January
I am on the way to Majuli – Tourist hot spot in Assam. Previously it was the biggest river island in the world with aprox. 1200 sq. Km, but due to soil erosion with aprox. 6-7 hundreds sq. Km it is second largest in the world now.
On the way people told me about the Sarasvati Pooja, It was going to be celebrated the next day they were busy in preparations. On the bank of Sabansari river in a small shed a baidev was weaving on local, portable handloom. I crossed the Sabansari river keeping my bicycle in a small boat, I was able to see half part of the road parallel to the river and half part was eaten by river. When I landed, it was heaven there. Raised houses with bamboo pillars, walls and flower totally made out of bamboos, grassy roof, handloom in front and a small boat under the house isn’t it wonderful? I was amazed by seeing that natural and self dependent life. I think this type of society is the most developed one which solves all the problems locally and leaving with harmony with nature. After a chat with one of these householder, I had that privilege to spend some time in the house and enjoy my mid-day meal that he served. I didn’t felt like to leave that lovely people and green and natural atmosphere.

All the way I was singing ‘Ami Ek Jajabor…(I am a gypsy) a famous song in the region. In the first stanza it is said that, I crossed the Mississippi and seen the river Volga starting from Lohit. When I arrived at Lohit, sun was setting in the west. The great thing was people had constructed a bridge out of Bamboos and they were only maintaining it by charging a small amount to user.
Because of all this when I crossed Lohit my eyes were wet. I spent few moments, I was in Majuli, and it was just like a dream land. It has attracted several people. On the way I visited two wonderful bamboo houses one constructed by a French architect and another by British.
I was at right time in Majuli. The famous Bhavana – a dramatic expression of mythological stories with music and dance – a ten day festival was just started. Majuli was work place of Shrimant ShankarDev a important sent of Assam. The stories which are enacteded in Bhavana are written by Shankardev. Very late in night after observing the Bhavana and all wonderful arrangement I moved to Satra.

31st January
‘Satra’ is an autonomous colony of 100 to 400 members, where a unmarried male can stay as long as he wants and earn on his own by skill based or agricultural means. I started my day with a round in the Satra.
Last night I was staying in Kamalabari Satra. It has it’s own guest house, shops. I had interactions with wood artisans and farmers. Some of them were having there own farm and some were working on others.
Majuli has 22 such kind of Satras. I visted the oldest one too, by paddling just 4Km. A hand fan is made in this Satra it was so decorative and finely made that it was costing Rs. 350.
Many Places they welcomed me for Sarasvati Pooja, I just joined at two places. Interacted with students, teachers and had Prasad with them.

Two and half hours on that motor boat for crossing that huge Bramahaputra compelled me to think ‘how little we are’.
In a small colony near Bahana I got wonderful young friends Utpal and Ujval, Palash, Lohit and other. When we –yuva- come together then what can be said. Utpal’s mother was bit orthodox; we were not able to communicate due to different languages. But I was surprised by the lovely treatment she gave to me. She feed me nicely arranged many things for me and finally while living she gifted me some embroidery work pieces done by her.


1st February
We had a big photo session then four Friends joined me on the way still Jorahat. Songs, chats it was great to ‘be five’.
Sweets and tea was served by way friends with a warm chat
After crossing Janzi town and river it was Amguri town. I stayed in a hotel and bought food for the first time after leaving Guwahati.

2nd February
On the way I got a nice friend Anand. He was handsome so was enacted as Krishna at several times. I named him ‘Krishnanand’ he too was on bicycle on the way to his sister’s house. After a little talk he found me credible to share his story. Due to a very close relation with a family he was on his own was ready to accept their fifteen year old daughter, who was recently raped. But there was strong opposition from krishanand’s family and he was in dwell ‘what to do?’ After asking few questions, I analyzed the situation according to me which he found wonderful. He took me to his sister’s house served with hot TailPeetha, joined long on the way and finally unwillingly left me with heavy heart. I too was glad to meet him.
On that day Sibsagar District was called for a ‘Bandh’ to protest a innocent killing by police, so no traffic on the road but lot of interrogation and checking by police personals.
Just opposite to Lakwa thermal power station I was staying with Premjeet’s family. He met me on the way and invited me to stay with him. I went to lot of friends houses with Prem and had lot of sweets. With Nepalese Muslims and Hindus it was friendly colony. Here I had very touchy interaction with on women coal worker. I thought she might be considering me a officer, so to remove the misunderstanding I asked her ‘What do you think who am I?’ she suddenly replied ‘my son’.
This was my last halt in Assam, since Nagaland border was just 17km far.

Still this point some observations I made about Assam
With ‘Pukhari culture’, bamboo and fertile land Assam is region which can attain Swaraj in a very small period if tried in that way.
If the roads made in that way and the space is provided with very little encouragement bicycle can be the vehicle of the state.
People are loving, has respect for Jajabor(a gypsy) and a bit scared of militant personals. They thing in beginning ULFA was doing good things.
For lot of people raising number of Bangladeshis is a thing to worry.
Bodland has got it’s territorial autonomy, but soon will be a different state of India.
Here I had lot of Peethas, learned 4 Assamies songs and got loving friends.

The Assam tribune
i m concluding my cycle journy here at Guwahati today

The Mirror
first time in my life i crossed international border and that too on bicycle.
i have been to myanmar at Tamhu
it is wonderful there too

The Sangai Express
20 days in Manipur
its burning, the cirfew was imposed in Imphal.
peole are lovely