Post About Nagaland

3rd February
Soon I passed Sonari and then there were huge tea plantation I have seen, its very romantic over here.
Namtala – the check post – I crossed and here I m in Nagaland. If you want to know how much destruction we are doing every day? How much natural resources are going out of such states like Nagaland? Then you can just visit this place. A lot of huge wooden trunks pass every day and great number of it is lying here. There are hundreds of stone crushers. In last cycle tour when I entered in Tripura and Mizoram it was same picture. I am always anguish while passing such place. I left the plane with Assam and as I reached closer, blue mountains turned to green. On the way a pastor asked me join him on way back and not to go further because there was no human habitat in next 20km according to him. First he welcomed me to Nagaland and I had a small but nice interaction with him but carried my journey. I was very enthu and was felling very energetic being in the mountain. By the time I reached Tuimei a small village it was very dark. After a group check up of my belonging they welcomed me. I was staying with Chincwang, he was a good singer at church. After diner I joined him at church where he was learning new songs. I had a good chat with different friends gathered at ‘my’ place. That day with very tough arrangement I had very good sleep. My host was victim of army harassment done because of such assistance he provided to a stranger still he and I both were glad to meet each other.

4th February
Chincwang asked me to drop in on my way back and I left taking warm wishes from my friends. The road was up and down, green, windy and with lot of curves giving beautiful mountain’s view. All the way I explored Nagaland by such roads. District commissioner arranged a room in guest house for me, from there a beautiful view of Mon town u could see. On three small mountains the town is spread with valleys on both sides East and West and then with big mountains spread still horizon. all the way in town two young girls accompanied me with lot of talk and refreshments.

5th feb.
I did some official work, extended my ILP, Interacted with people. I remember the point on the road where roads from a Church, Mosque and temple meet. At Tuimui and here also there was not a single bicycle in the village so I got a great response.
‘Riding down the bicycle’ do you remember the poem we learned in schools? Its great.
At Tanhai since there were GREF (road makers) officers staying in the camp, I stayed with them. Where ever there is such availably people don’t prefert to take responsibility of strangers.

6th feb.
Near Wakching I kept my bicycle at road side and joined Aching on his bike. We went to his village. He feed me deer’s meat which I had first time in my life.
His house was a perfect Naga House. Stove at the center, shelves are hanging over it where they dry n number of things, raised gallery where green broms were kept for drying in the sun, this structure made out of bamboo and mud I wish I could have it. We came back from Shiyong village on the main road. I picked up my bicycle and Zu Zu Zu.
Enjoying up and down way, I was going deep in Nagaland because of the curved roads I just felt as an ant entering in a rose through petals. But the real exploration started when I chose an interior path from zero miles. I would have traveled more than 20kms, but I didn’t found any colony. It was too late in night my loving friend moon was very bright. Thick green forest, breezy wind, lots of springs and kal-kal of river – just imagine.
At first when the paddle of my bicycle broke I was rushing towards a habitat, trying hard with that bicycle but then I realized the beauty in surrounding. I was not at all frightened and was thinking ki this road must not end. But finally I rested. It was a small temporary structure made by coal workers Deepak, Krishna and Ustad, with nobody in surrounding. But you will not believe I had nice food and talk. After putting all my dresses on the body I rested on that bamboo structure with deep satisfaction of repairing of my bicycle. Unexpectedly Ustad -the truck driver- joined the paddle to the bicycle It was mid night and there was no electric connection too. For one moment I thought ki I am in a dream.

7th feb.
In dawn my companion went on coal field leaving me in that structure. I said bye and rested for some time and then I too started my journey very early. I halted at Tamlu In afternoon only with Ang or Wang – the village’s king (Every Konayak Naga’s village has a king). Here I saw two skulls with horns of wild beefalos were hanging in his hose. He gave me extremely lovely treatment and asked to stay for one more day, since the next day was Sunday and here Sunday is total Bandh.

8th feb
After 13 kms ride from Morangkhum I was on NH 61. In four hours four vehicles passed, this I called Sunday Effect. In this Mokokchuing district Ao Naga resides.
Sasi was standing on the road just as he was waiting for me. The first sentence he said “Its becoming dark now you please stay with me. He was a owner of a pineapple and banana farm. In the Night he enlightened me on one thing.
Dogs in other parts of India though with lot of love but always treated as ‘dogs’. “We treat them as a family member” he said. I was observing that. His two kids of less than 10 year old were playing with eight dogs as playing with brothers and in several other way Sasi’s statement was true. Naga are several other things known as dog eaters. Sasi also likes dog’s meat. So he will kill his dogs or sell them for eating. But isn’t it great that whole of the life a dog will be treated as a part of the family?

9th feb
At Chingmungyang I had long chat with de-addiction center’s activist. To conquer strong Naga people opium was propagated here by ‘civilized’ Britishers.
Its Nagaland Gandhi Ashram here.
I met with the founder Natwar Thikar in Guwahati at his camp office. He assisted me there by providing detail information about the Nagaland, guided and gave tips for my journey. It was the time now to explore his karmabhumi. I got a warm welcome at computer institute started by NGA. In Nagaland only two such institutes are there one at Kohima – the capital and other here in this town with excellent set up and facilities and courses because of the NGA’s effort only. Institute’s director Lanu took time in the evening for outing and I explored chi wonderful Chuchuyimlang. An incredible structure made out of bamboos called ‘Murung’ is for traditional dance of young boys and girls. Its beautiful design and weaving is just indescribable. There was a biggest dhol I ever seen with diameter of 4 ft and length of 25 ft. But beside all these the conversation with Mr. Subong a very learned person and founder secretary of friend’s high school and pastor’s wife marked the day. We discussed all the contemporary issues. I was delighted when I came to know and seen the village court. When I think of ‘Swaraj’, Swarj in judical system is crucial one. Here Naga People are autonomous in judicial system. Because the justice is done by ‘known’ persons and without any fee nobody feel unjust.
When we were back nice food was ready. Oman who was mentaing NGA served with food affectionately. Lanu once spend four year in Maharastra for hi engineering, we talked a lot about this and on several other things.

10th
In the morning I visited Friends high school. Talked with children, but it was tuff due to language but with teachers I had a long conversation tracing the importance of creativity and skill base in education. After a long gap I had roties with Oman in lunch and I left Chuchu.
Out of 28 km I traveled on that day aprox. 20 Km was hike. I was tired. Since it was districts headquarter Mokokchuing, a city, I went to Police Station to report my arrival as an intimation. They arranged some food and facility for staying so I put up with them.

11th feb
Yesterday I was towing my bicycle for 5 km due to a breakage in the handle so I welded it here. The welding was gift from Dhiraj and Biraj, before on friend Tongpang gifted me a small basket of woven bamboos made by him. I had delicious lunch with Lee who was once in Mumbai. He was 32 and a paralytic patient, which was a withdraw effect after leaving opium. He was frankly sharing his story. Just before leaving the city Emti a teacher felt ki I should stay with him to night, but I carried on after a talk. He insisted me to have momos but my stomach was full so he give it in a box with a wonderful chatni. He also loved traveling but due to family responsibilities was unable to go out. Once he did cycling between Agara and Delhi for several times. I invited him to my place. All these friends I got just because of my bicycle. They really admire cycling in hills.
I crossed Umar the second largest village of the state. It is magnificent when you see a colony on the top of the green mountain. Nagaland is the best place for such scenes.
I went 6 km off-road and reached Loghkhum. When I started on the way somebody phoned his friend Wati telling that a foreigner bicyclist is on the way. So Wati was on the way to receive me. He was not disappointed after knowing my nationality. With a joy he hosted and expressed love by providing nice food.

12th February
I twisted my way for Longkhum 1. To meet ‘the’ creative man of the region Dr. Ayam. I was glad to see the innovative he developed for farmers and wood cutters, carvers. Among his creative thing there was a stove of iron pipes, in which cooking vessels are kept on the pipes and water is heated in the pipes while cooing.
2 to observe the animist religion which is practiced here, but rather than stony god I didn’t found any thing.
Once this village was the headquarter of the rebellions so was totally burned by Indian army.
Yesterday I climbed those 6 kms in one and half hour while coming town it took only five minutes.
Before entering Wokha district we cross through a small portion of Zunheboto district where Sema Naga reside. Khekaito asked me to have tea with him in his house and our interaction resulted in the halt. It was Sastani Village near Vk town. While having round in that I met Mughato a wood and bamboo artisan. I was glad to visit his wonderful house. Some villagers make jagry here organically, good to hear that. Here I fond a handy loom in almost every house. And in one hose they showed me all the traditional dresses and ornaments used in festival time great. Today I had diner in a two feet tall stool like wooden plate carved out of a single wooden piece. Khekaito talked on lot if things still late in night. He was aware of problems of industrialized world and worried about the day by day loss of tradition skills and wisdom. He was interested in setting up a bio gas unit; I said I’ll provide few details regarding this when I’ll back at my home.

13th February
Didn’t know who but somebody removed the flowers given at friends high school and replaced with fresh one. Khekaito was gifting me something a water bottle or a trouser I just thanked him then he added some more flowers on my bicycle.
It was 13 km down till Doyang River. Twelve I enjoyed and when I was in full speed on a curve a applied a strong breaks. And… And I fall down. There was no injury but was a great twist in rear wheel’s rim. It was not possible to ride it since it was a foldable bicycle I folded and was waiting for a lift. I crossed that 106 Km in Omini and was in Kohima. It was dark outside and every shop was closed. I stayed in a lodge and was waiting for morning.

14th February
Surprisngly there was not a single bicycle and bicycle repairing shop in the state capital. I searched hard for it and finally after repairing a bit I started my journey towards Dimapur. The entire 64 Km down the hill. This slope I would have had crossed in 4-5 hours it took two days for me. After 29 km I halted at Piphema in the residence of a hotel owner. When I was involved in farming in Udupi in Karnataka we thought to plough with on animal, since we were not able to keep two animals. At that time I searched for the technique like anything that I got it here. The person I was staying with explained me how the ploughing is done by one (he)baffelo.

15th
Down the road I went to the only Agriculture College in state in search of bamboo seeds. All the way I was searching for them. Bamboo is a blessing for human being. I was envy to see so much bamboo in the region. Prof. D P Sharm was there from last 28. He is basically from UP. Together with Mrs. Sharm, Keka – a MSc student we had three hour long talk. The couple shared there experiences In Nagaland. “When we visit our native place we fell as we are outscored.” Mrs Sharma said. People are very cooperative loving and helpful, professor added on it. Please note this point basically who think Naga people are wild and un civilized. I spent totally seventeen days in Nagaland I was experiencing incredible love and hospitality. But I must tell you the troth also that I was also a bit scare to enter in Nagaland especially considering the militancy. All are lovely people here including militant personals.
With Keka and his class fellow Pelle I had a great stay in the luxurious guest house. Actually I spent most time in the hostel refreshing my memories of hostel life songs and masti bhari baten .

16th
Explored the farm of Agricultural college – SASRD. Keka showed me his tissue culture lab. A marine drive along side with Paglapar river in that green beautiful valley took me to Demapur. It is states economic capital. With every single facility this cosmopolitan place Dmapur can be called as ‘a mini metro’. I was cheered when with little information I successded in finding out address of one of my classmate Shailabh, with whom I was studying in Pune eight years ago.
His parents gave me warm welcome. Took my bicycle to repairing center he asked me to come next day.
A grand talk with a very learned professor (kshailabh’s father), North Indian home food, superb.

17th
Matar aur alu ke parathe aur halwa ma ne banaya. Bicycle was ready then again ma ke haat ka khana. I went to KVIC’s Dimapur unit and was not happy to see their work, but people were nice. They asked me to halt there so I landed at Jai Jagat Bhavan Demapur.

18th
We went to explore, all the time we were talking what could be done here as a village industry and they were shearing the problems they were facing. Because of big industry every body want a fine product in cheep rate and with less physical effort.
Dimapur was not in my plan since there was a twist in my cycle tyre I twisted my route. Bicycle twist was removed yesterday. I took a lift on the same road to reach back to kohima. It was dark and I was just standing in a lonely square, thinking where to go. Some young boys and girls approached me.
Are you a cycle tourist’
‘Yes’
‘You could join us to night’
I was surprised. In a city and that too densly millitionized Kohima I was not expecting this.
Mughato, Grace, Kali were from a villige and staying in Kohim for their higher studies taking a small house on rent. Kali tought me a Naga song. When youngsters gather Bakbak and fun has to happen, but apart from that we discussed how we can create some jobs rather than search for job. I injected an idea of starting a skill based learning center together in their own village when they will go back after finishing their studies.

19th February
I felt ki there shouldn’t such place when I was there at Second World War crematory. I visited Nagaland state measum too. Since I crossed a lot of part of the state I felt these measum do a very good job of destroying the sprit of the culture. A was good to talk with Mr. Meinglo activist of Nagaland peoples movement for human rights. He was trying to reconcile the National workers of Nagaland.
It was late in noon when I left the city. It looks marvelous from a distance the spreading of city on mountains.
It was NH 39. the way to Imphal, people don’t respond much to a stranger like me. This I call highway effect. When it was dark I was at Kikhoma village, I went to village head men. Abito told me about Angami Nags thir language is called as ‘Tenydi’ and is only literary language of the state. This was last halt in Nagaland.

Few things about Nagaland
Rice is the main food. Plenty of Kachu – yam so called as Naga potato. Almost zero oil preparation. Two main ingredients in vegetable or stoo one preserved bamboo shoots in some parts and boiled and semi-dried bean’s paste. Every day I had this food with some kind of meat.
Every day I was seeing 3-4 people with gun. They were regular citizens with lovely heart. They were carrying gun for hunting purpose.
16 or so are the major tribes I spent time with Konayaks, Aos, Semas, and Angamis. Every one has their own language and festival which they celebrate with great energy.
They are proud to say that nobody in history has conquered them and hence most people want to be free.
Its totally hilly so zoom cultivation is most but step farming is also there
Villages are far away of party politics. They have their autonomous Village Concil And a body to look after developmental work called Village Development Board.
Village Court is again a autonomous system Naga fallows.
Three groups are active FGH-NNC(fedral government of Nagaland – Naga National council), NSCN (National socialist council of Nagaland) K- Khublang and IM – Isac Muvah. And all three run a parallel government. Activists of these groups are often called as Freedom Fighters or National Workers.
Handy Handloom is common and alive.
People have lots of foreigner travelers but they say the found less Indians.
With green forest and bamboo plants it is Greenland.
With Blue Mountains and lots of springs it is Dreamland.
Always singing a song, misty, Nagaland